Before you begin
- Your flue design should be complete, and you should have all the required components on hand. The install kit is the "base kit" that includes the parts that most everyone needs. Since every structure is different, people need varying amounts of pipe in addition to the kit. Consult our flue design resources or contact us for help designing your flue system.
- Your stove should be assembled and your hearth built. Consult the Dwarf Manual for instructions on your hearth, proper clearances, and heat shields. Watch the unboxing video for help with stove assembly.
- Your vehicle should be level and wheels chocked.
You Will Need:
- Level and/or plumb bob
- Wax pencil or sharpie
- Tools to cut a hole in your ceiling/roof.
- Fasteners to attach your pipe boot to your roof, your roof support bracket to your ceiling or roof, and your ceiling trim plate to your ceiling
- Silicone or urethane roofing sealant to seal the pipe boot flange to your roof
You May Need:
- Chop saw or angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade to cut single-wall pipe.
- Sheet metal crimpers to adjust crimps.
- High-temp RTV silicone if using a metal flashing or a storm collar
- Stovepipe screws if you're not using clamps to secure your joints.
- Scissors to trim your pipe boot
Step 1: Attach stovepipe to flue flange
The first section of stovepipe needs to be sealed to the stove's flue flange with stove cement. Since the stove needs a flue system to function, and both the stove cement and the stove's paint are heat cured (which can generate some chemical fumes), we recommend curing the stove paint and the cement outside, at the same time.
Apply Stove Cement
Cover the inside of your flue flange and the outside of the male end of your pipe with stove cement, and connect them together. Use a bubble level to ensure that both your stove and your stovepipe are perfectly plumb.
Thoroughly clean off any excess stove cement before firing your stove. It is very difficult to remove stove cement once it's cured.
Install Screws (Optional)
Stovepipe screws are not required to secure stovepipe into the flue flange, but can be optionally added for additional security, or to hold the stovepipe in place until the cement cures. If you choose to add screws, use three heat-proof screws evenly spaced around the flue flange, and drill pilot holes through the the flue flange and stovepipe before installing them.
Complete Outside Burn
Add additional sections of stovepipe to get at least 40" of vertical pipe, and build a fire in your stove outdoors to complete your initial cure according to the instructions in the Dwarf Manual.
Once your stove is cooled, move it back inside and secure it in place on the hearth.
Step 2: Cut the hole through your roof
The hole in your ceiling needs to be aligned with the pipe attached to your stove (unless you're offsetting your chimney with elbows), and should be large enough to allow the insulated pipe to pass through without violating clearance to combustibles inside the ceiling.
Mark Your Center Point
Determine the center point where your flue will penetrate the ceiling.
If you're going straight up from your stove, you can use a plumb bob to locate the center, or shine a flashlight up through the stovepipe to project the location on the ceiling.
Finding level when working in a vehicle can be maddeningly difficult, since "level" tends to change slightly every time you move the vehicle. Sometimes it's easiest just to reference the pipe's distance from nearby vertical walls at the top and the bottom to ensure the pipe is plumb relative to its surroundings. Large deviations from vertical can negatively affect your draft, but fudging the angle by a couple of degrees to make the pipe look straight relative to a nearby wall is fine.
Mark Your Clearances
Mark the area around the center point where you'll need to cut material away to prevent clearance violations inside of your ceiling. Insulated pipe needs 2" clearance to combustibles in all directions.
A 3" insulated pipe, which is 5" outer diameter, needs to pass through a space at least 9" in diameter free of combustibles. A 4" insulated pipe needs a 10" space, a 5" insulated pipe needs an 11" space.
If your roof is pitched or curved, the hole required for a vertical pipe to pass through it will be oval.
Cut the Hole through the Roof
Make sure the area your pipe will pass through doesn't intersect with any structural supports, pipes, or wires. If you're not sure, make a small exploratory hole first to check.
Cut out your hole in the ceiling with an appropriate tool for your ceiling material. A scroll saw or reciprocating saw tends to work best for wood, while a sheet metal nibbler typically works best for sheet metal.
Above your ceiling, cut away insulation and anything within 2" of where the pipe will go.
Mark the center point for your roof penetration and drill a small hole through your roof at the center point. Then, from the top of your roof, mark the sides of your cutout and cut the hole in your roof using an appropriate tool for your roofing material.
Add Shielding if Necessary
If your pipe passes through a cabinet or other large space before hitting the roof, the pipe in that area must be enclosed in a chase to enforce the 2" clearance around the stovepipe. A chase ensures that people or combustible materials can't accidentally come in contact with the hot pipe.
Step 3: Install your stovepipe
With your ceiling prepped, you'll now build your flue system and attach your stovepipe to your structure.
Assemble Chimney Pipe
Secure the single-to-double adapter to the bottom of the 20" section of insulated pipe with a double-wall clamp.
Insert Chimney Pipe into Boot
Determine whether your pipe boot needs to be trimmed to fit your pipe. The hole in your boot should generally be 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe passing through it, which provides a snug, watertight seal with no additional sealants need. Most pipe boots include stamped ridges with labels for various pipe diameters. If necessary, use scissors to trim your pipe boot to the proper size.
Thread your pipe boot onto your insulated pipe with the metal side of the flange pointing up. If your pipe boot has a square base and your roof is curved or pitched, it's best to orient the corner to the high side of your roof (i.e. like a diamond, not a square), which will give you better coverage and help to shed water away from the flange.
If you are using the recommended detachable chimney, attach the driving cap (sold separately) to the top of the pipe with a double-wall clamp, and adjust the pipe boot so that the top of the boot is just below the bottom of the clamp. This will ensure you have the shortest possible chimney stub when the detachable chimney is not deployed.
Install the Roof Support Bracket
Assemble your roof support bracket by attaching the L-brackets to the sides of the clamp using the provided bolts.
The roof support bracket can be installed upside-down or right-side up, on top of the roof under the pipe boot, on the ceiling above the ceiling trim plate, or anywhere in between. The two most popular options are pictured. Install the support bracket wherever makes the most sense for your installation. Adjust the position of the bracket until you are satisfied with the placement of the insulated pipe through the roof, and then fasten the bracket to your ceiling.
Build Your Connector Pipe
Connect the remaining single-wall pipe from your stove to the single-to-double adapter, using a single-wall clamp or three stovepipe screws at each joint to fasten the sections together. No cement or caulk is required or recommended at pipe-to-pipe joints.
The center joint of the telescoping pipe is meant to be free-floating and does not need to be clamped or screwed.
Single-wall pipe can be cut to achieve the length you need. Cut the pipe with a chop saw or angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade. You can use a single-wall clamp as a guide and a sharpie or a wax pencil to mark your cuts. Cut the female end off and preserve the factory male end on the piece you're going to use.
You can cut the female end off a longer single-wall pipe and insert the top of the telescoping pipe inside of it to make a longer telescoping section.
Step 4: Create a watertight roof seal
Your pipe boot is critical to keeping water from penetrating your roof. A properly installed pipe boot or flashing should provide decades of reliable service.
A high-temperature silicone pipe boot is an ideal choice for flashing a non-porous roofing material like metal or rubber. For installation in a vehicle, the flexible seal of a pipe boot handles even severe bumps and vibrations without compromising its seal.
Pipe boots are generally not compatible with porous roofing materials like asphalt or cedar shingles, or slate or tile roofs, but those types of materials are typically not used on vehicles.
Installing a Pipe Boot
Ensure that the underside of your pipe boot flange (the surface that will touch the roof) and the top of your roof where the flange will sit are clean and dry. Consult the directions on your roofing sealant and the weather report to ensure that conditions will allow it to properly cure (i.e. not too cold, and not raining until the cure is complete).
Verify that your boot is oriented properly. The metal side of the boot flange should be on top. If your pipe boot has a square base and your roof is curved or pitched, it's best to orient the corner to the high side of your roof (i.e. like a diamond, not a square), which will give you better coverage and help to shed water away from the flange.
Apply sealant to the underside of your pipe boot flange, then fasten the flange into place with fasteners through the flange and into the roof. Fastener spacing should be approximately 1" apart, and fastener type is dictated by the roofing material. Rivets work well for sheet metal. Pan head stainless screws work well for both metal and rubber roofs with wood sheathing behind them.
The boot flange needs to tightly conform to the surface of the roof. Fasten from the center outward, and avoid stretching or pinching the boot while fastening. If installing on a corrugated roof, ensure you have a fastener at the belly of each corrugation to prevent the boot from pulling away from the low spot.
Seal around the perimeter of the pipe boot flange, and over top of each of the fasteners. Remove any excess sealant.
No sealant is required or recommended where the pipe meets the boot.
Step 5: Assemble your chimney
Install Remaining Chimney Parts
If you are using a detachable chimney, remove the driving cap and install the extra 20" insulated pipe using the same clamp.
Install the roof vent on the top of the chimney and secure with a double-wall clamp.
Trim Your Ceiling
Install the ceiling trim plate on the ceiling around the insulated pipe. For pitched ceilings, install half of the plate on the low side of the ceiling first, then install the other half on the high side, overlapping the previous plate.
Step 6: Inspect your installation
Verify Chimney is Supported
Ensure chimney is properly supported. The roof support bracket should fully support the weight of the chimney vertically, as well as laterally.
Verify Joints are Secure
Ensure every pipe-to-pipe joint has either a clamp or three stovepipe screws (except for the center joint of the telescoping pipe which is free-floating).
Check for clearance violations around your stove and your flue system.
The Dwarf stove requires 18" clearance from the back or 16" to the sides. Third party stoves may require different clearances, so check your user manual or contact the manufacturer if needed.
Single-wall pipe requires 18" clearance to combustibles. These clearances can be reduced by up to 2/3 with a proper air cooled heat shield between the heat source and any combustible materials. Insulated pipe requires 2" clearance to combustibles in all directions.
Larger clearances are always acceptable.
If you aren't sure about any part of your flue installation, please get in touch! We are here to help however we can. You can contact us by email at firstname.lastname@example.org, call us at 208-352-3417, or use the contact form below.