Installing a Yurt/Tent Wall Exit Flue System

Before you begin

  • Your flue design should be complete, and you should have all the required components on hand.  The install kit is the "base kit" that includes the parts that most everyone needs.  Since every structure is different, people need varying amounts of pipe in addition to the kit.  Consult our flue design resources or contact us for help designing your flue system.
  • Your stove should be assembled and your hearth built.  Consult the Dwarf Manual for instructions on your hearth, proper clearances, and heat shields.  Watch the unboxing video for help with stove assembly.

You Will Need:

  • A post sunk securely in the ground 12-18 inches from where the pipe will exit your yurt/tent wall
  • Screwdriver
  • Ladder
  • Level and/or plumb bob
  • Wax pencil or sharpie
  • Tools to cut a hole in your exterior wall.
  • Fasteners to attach the tee support and wall support to the post

You May Need:

  • Angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade to cut single-wall pipe.
  • Sheet metal crimpers to adjust crimps.
  • Stovepipe screws if you're not using clamps to secure your joints.
  • Heat-safe lubricant like spray graphite to prevent stainless hardware from binding
  • Optional: silicone caulk to seal between the exterior of the tent fabric and the pipe boot flange for added protection from water penetration in driving rain.

Step 1: Attach stovepipe to flue flange

The first section of stovepipe must be sealed to the stove's flue flange with stove cement.  Since the stove needs a flue system to function, and both the stove cement and the stove's paint are heat cured (which can generate some chemical fumes), we recommend curing the stove paint and the cement outside, at the same time.

If you are using a rear exit configuration with the pipe passing through the wall behind the stove before turning to vertical, it may not be practical to perform an outside burn before installing.  If this is the case, seal the first section of stovepipe into the flue flange as described in this step, and then ensure your structure is well ventilated when performing your first burn inside.

If you're connecting insulated pipe directly to the stove's flue flange for an all-insulated chimney, the inner wall of the pipe will need to be crimped to fit inside the flue flange.  We can do that for you prior to shipping your order, or you can do it yourself with a sheet metal crimper.  Crimp the pipe only as many times as needed for the pipe to bottom out on the flue flange.  Over-crimping will make the pipe loose inside of the flange.

Test Fit Pipe in the Flue Flange

Your install will look best if the stovepipe is fully seated into the flue flange.  Due to manufacturing variations, sometimes the male end of the pipe fits a bit too tight inside the flue flange and doesn't fully bottom out, or sometimes it bottoms out too early.  In that case, trimming some material off the end with an angle grinder can help ensure a tight fit.

Pipe in Flue Flange with Gap
Cut Male End of Stovepipe
Fully Seated Stovepipe in Flange

If you are installing a third-party stove, some additional modification might be necessary for a perfect fit.  Dwarf stoves use a female flue flange.  To connect our kit to a male flue flange, cut the male crimped end off with an angle grinder to make a female end. 

To connect our kit to an oval flange, either use an oval-to-round adapter made for your stove, or cut off both the crimp and the shoulder, bend the pipe to the shape of your flue flange, and re-crimp if necessary. 

To connect our kit to a Cubic Mini stove, use our Cubic Mini adapter.

Apply Stove Cement

Cover the inside of your flue flange and the outside of the male end of your pipe with stove cement, and connect them together.  Use a bubble level to ensure that both your stove and your stovepipe are perfectly plumb.

Thoroughly clean off any excess stove cement before firing your stove.  It is very difficult to remove stove cement once it's cured.

If the pipe is very loose inside of the flue flange, a thicker stove cement might be helpful.  High heat furnace cement sold in a tub works well.  Try to find it in black for best results.

Install Screws (Optional)

Stovepipe screws are not required to secure stovepipe into the flue flange, but can be optionally added for additional security, or to hold the stovepipe in place until the cement cures.  If you choose to add screws, use three heat-proof screws evenly spaced around the flue flange, and drill pilot holes through the the flue flange and stovepipe before installing them.

Complete Outside Burn

Add additional sections of stovepipe to get at least 40" of vertical pipe, and build a fire in your stove outdoors to complete your initial cure according to the instructions in the Dwarf Manual.

Once your stove has cooled, move it back inside and secure it in place on the hearth.

Step 2: Cut the hole through your wall

The hole in your wall needs to be aligned with the pipe attached to your stove.

Mark the Cutout

Determine the center point where your flue will penetrate the wall.  If you're exiting at a point above your stove, make sure the wall penetration is centered vertically above the stove's flue flange.  If you're exiting directly behind the stove before turning to vertical, make sure the center of the hole in the wall is precisely lined up with the center of the rear flue flange.

Mark the area around the center point where you'll need to cut material away to allow the pipe to pass through the wall.

Use one of the square mounting rings from the tent stove jack as a pattern to mark the position of each bolt, and then cut the bolt holes in your fabric wall or roof.

Cut Through the Wall

Bolt the stove jack in place using the included hardware with a mounting ring on each side. Optionally, add silicone caulk (not included) between the exterior of the tent fabric and the pipe boot flange for added protection from water penetration in roof installations or driving rain. It’s probably not necessary for most tent wall installations, but wouldn’t hurt. Finally, cut away the fabric wall material from the inside of your stove jack and install your chimney pipe.

Step 3: Install your stovepipe

With your tent stove jack installed, you'll now build your flue system and attach your exterior chimney to your post.  Assemble your stovepipe using a clamp at each joint to secure the pipes together.  Alternatively, three stovepipe screws can be used to secure each joint.  No cement or caulk is required or recommended at pipe-to-pipe joints.

If any joints of the insulated pipe are especially tight, turn while pressing the pipes together to help ease assembly.

Assemble the Tee, Tee Support, and Horizontal Pipe

Assemble the tee support bracket by attaching the two triangular supports to the underside of the rectangular tee support bracket plate with the provided bolts.  Attach the cleanout cap (part of the insulated tee) to the bottom of the tee support bracket.  Attach the tee support bracket to the bottom of the tee.

Since tents and yurts are typically not rigid enough to support the vertical chimney, the tee support bracket and wall support bracket included in this kit should face away from the structure, and attach to a post securely sunk into the ground.

Align the tee support bracket so that the wall side of the supports are facing the opposite direction as the opening on the side of the tee (i.e. the "tee leg").

If you're having trouble getting the single-to-double adapter or another piece of insulated pipe to fully bottom out on the next piece, check the metal trim ring in the bottom of the insulated pipe.  The trim ring should be pushed fully into the groove that mates with the clamp around the joint.  If the trim ring is not fully seated, it may prevent the piece below from bottoming out.  Push the trim ring in until it is fully seated, and try assembling the pipes again.

Applying a heat-safe lubricant like spray graphite to stainless bolt threads can help prevent binding.  This step is optional, but recommended especially for bolts that might be tightened down tightly (like the support brackets), or tightened and loosened repeatedly (like the single- or double-wall pipe clamps).

Install Tee Support and Horizontal Pipe

Attach the Single to Double Wall Adapter to the section of double wall insulated pipe that will be the horizontal run of the flue pipe (10", 15", or 20"). Place the insulated pipe through the silicone pipe boot from the inside of the structure with the single to double adapter facing the inside of the structure. Verify that the pipe lands where you need it inside, attach it to the leg of the tee, and adjust the tee support bracket accordingly, ensuring that the vertical portion of the insulated tee stays at least 2" away from the exterior wall and from the post (if it is a combustible material).

Use a bubble level to ensure the tee is oriented perfectly vertically, and fasten the tee support bracket to the post.

The insulated pipe must extend far enough into the room to avoid a clearance violation from the single-wall pipe and the rear of the stove.  A heat shield is usually required for the standard wall exit configuration.  Ensure there is at least 18" clearance to combustibles from the single-wall stovepipe and the rear of the stove, or use heat shields to reduce the required clearance to no less than 6".

Install Connector Pipe

Connect the remaining single-wall pipe from your stove to the 90 degree elbow connecting to the single-to-double adapter, using a single-wall clamp or three stovepipe screws at each joint to fasten the sections together.

The center joint of the telescoping pipe is meant to be free-floating and does not need to be clamped or screwed.

Single-wall pipe can be cut to achieve the length you need.  Cut the pipe with an angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade.  You can use a single-wall clamp as a guide and a sharpie or a wax pencil to mark your cuts.  Cut the female end off and preserve the factory male end on the piece you're going to use.

You can cut the female end off a longer single-wall pipe and insert the top of the telescoping pipe inside of it to make a longer telescoping section.

Each piece of Tiny Wood Stove pipe has a top and a bottom.  Since the pieces will only fit together in one direction, maintaining the proper orientation is usually straightforward.  If you find a piece won't fit because you have a male-to-male or female-to-female end, something is probably upside-down.

Single-wall male ends (and male inner walls of insulated pipe) should point down toward the stove to contain any condensing liquids or creosote inside your flue system.  Outer wall male ends of insulated pipe should point up to help shed rain water outside of the pipe.  Note that the orientation of the insulated pipe inner wall is opposite the orientation of the outer wall.

Step 4: Assemble the chimney

Assemble your Vertical Chimney Segments

Assemble your vertical chimney on the outside of your structure by connecting the insulated pipes together and securing with clamps.

Install Chimney Supports

Install the wall support bracket as high as possible on your post, up to 6 feet above the tee support bracket.  If there is more than 6 feet of pipe above the tee support bracket and below the roof line, use additional wall support brackets (sold separately) evenly spaced, at least one every 6 feet.

Cap Your Chimney

Secure the roof vent to the top of your chimney with a clamp.

Step 5: Inspect your installation

Verify Chimney is Supported

The tee support and wall support(s) should fully support the weight of the chimney, and prevent lateral movement.  If the chimney stands 5' or taller above the highest wall support, it should be reinforced with an extended support bracket.

The interior connector pipe should be stable, fully supported by the stove at the bottom and the horizontal chimney pipe at the top.

Verify Joints are Secure

Ensure every pipe-to-pipe joint has either a clamp or three stovepipe screws (except for the center joint of the telescoping pipe which is free-floating).

Check Clearances

Check for clearance violations around your stove and your flue system.

The Dwarf stove requires 18" clearance from the back and 16" to the sides.  Third party stoves may require different clearances, so check your user manual or contact the manufacturer if needed.

Single-wall pipe requires 18" clearance to combustibles. These clearances can be reduced by up to 2/3 with a proper air cooled heat shield between the heat source and any combustible materials.  Insulated pipe requires 2" clearance to combustibles in all directions.

Larger clearances are always acceptable.


If you aren't sure about any part of your flue installation, please get in touch!  We are here to help however we can.  You can contact us by email at, call us at 208-352-3417, or use the contact form below.

  • This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Scroll to Top