Before you begin
- Your flue design should be complete, and you should have all the required components on hand. The install kit is the "base kit" that includes the parts that most everyone needs. Since every structure is different, people need varying amounts of pipe in addition to the kit. Consult our flue design resources or contact us for help designing your flue system.
- Your stove should be assembled and your hearth built. Consult the Dwarf Manual for instructions on your hearth, proper clearances, and heat shields. Watch the unboxing video for help with stove assembly. If you're building in a mobile structure like a Tiny House on Wheels, the structure should be level before you start work.
You Will Need:
- Level and/or plumb bob
- Wax pencil or sharpie
- Tools to cut a hole in your ceiling/roof.
- Fasteners to attach your pipe boot to your roof, your roof support bracket to your ceiling or roof, and your ceiling trim plate to your ceiling
- Silicone or urethane roofing sealant to seal the pipe boot flange to your roof
You May Need:
- Chop saw or angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade to cut single-wall pipe.
- Sheet metal crimpers to adjust crimps.
- High-temp RTV silicone if using a metal flashing or a storm collar
- Stovepipe screws if you're not using clamps to secure your joints.
- Scissors to trim your pipe boot
Step 1: Attach stovepipe to flue flange
The first section of stovepipe must be sealed to the stove's flue flange with stove cement. Since the stove needs a flue system to function, and both the stove cement and the stove's paint are heat cured (which can generate some chemical fumes), we recommend curing the stove paint and the cement outside, at the same time.
Apply Stove Cement
Cover the inside of your flue flange and the outside of the male end of your pipe with stove cement, and connect them together. Use a bubble level to ensure that both your stove and your stovepipe are perfectly plumb.
Thoroughly clean off any excess stove cement before firing your stove. It is very difficult to remove stove cement once it's cured.
Install Screws (Optional)
Stovepipe screws are not required to secure stovepipe into the flue flange, but can be optionally added for additional security, or to hold the stovepipe in place until the cement cures. If you choose to add screws, use three heat-proof screws evenly spaced around the flue flange, and drill pilot holes through the the flue flange and stovepipe before installing them.
Complete Outside Burn
Add additional sections of stovepipe to get at least 40" of vertical pipe, and build a fire in your stove outdoors to complete your initial cure according to the instructions in the Dwarf Manual.
Once your stove is cooled, move it back inside and secure it in place on the hearth.
Step 2: Cut the hole through your roof
The hole in your ceiling needs to be aligned directly above the pipe attached to your stove (unless you're offsetting your chimney with elbows), and should be large enough to allow the insulated pipe to pass through without violating clearance to combustibles inside the ceiling.
If you're installing your chimney through a standing seam metal roof, it's best to try to locate the base of the pipe boot in the flat area between seams. It's possible to conform a pipe boot up and over a seam, but it's more difficult to create a watertight seal.
Mark Your Center Point
Determine the center point where your flue will penetrate the ceiling.
If you're going straight up from your stove, you can use a plumb bob to locate the center. Alternatively, remove the stove's baffle and shine a flashlight up through the stovepipe to project the location on the ceiling.
Mark Your Clearances
Mark the area around the center point where you'll need to cut material away to prevent clearance violations inside of your ceiling. Insulated pipe needs 2" clearance to combustibles in all directions.
A 3" insulated pipe, which is 5" outer diameter, needs to pass through a space at least 9" in diameter free of combustibles. A 4" insulated pipe needs a 10" space, a 5" insulated pipe needs an 11" space.
If your roof is pitched, the hole required for a vertical pipe to pass through it will be oval.
Cut the Hole through the Roof
Make sure the area your pipe will pass through doesn't intersect with any joists, pipes, or wires. If you're not sure, make a small exploratory hole first to check.
Cut out your hole in the ceiling with an appropriate tool for your ceiling material. A scroll saw or reciprocating saw tends to work best for wood, while a sheet metal nibbler typically works best for sheet metal.
Above your ceiling, cut away insulation and anything within 2" of where the pipe will go.
Mark the center point for your roof penetration and drill a small hole through your roof at the center point. Then, from the top of your roof, mark the sides of your cutout and cut the hole in your roof using an appropriate tool for your roofing material.
Add Shielding if Necessary
If you're using loose fill insulation that could fall into the pipe, or have more than a few inches between the ceiling and the roof sheathing, you may need to add some shielding inside the ceiling to enforce the 2" clearance around the insulated pipe.
If your pipe passes through a second story, a loft, or an attic, the pipe in that area must be enclosed in a chase to enforce the 2" clearance around the stovepipe. A chase ensures that people or combustible materials can't accidentally come in contact with the hot pipe.
Step 3: Install your stovepipe
With your ceiling prepped, you'll now build your flue system and attach your chimney pipe to your structure.
Assemble Chimney Pipe
Assemble all of your insulated pipe with the single-to-double adapter on the bottom and the roof vent on top. Measure the distance from the opening in the roof vent to the point where your pipe will pass the roof line as determined by the 3-2-10 Rule, and mark that point on your pipe. Remove all the parts above your mark to make it easier to maneuver your pipe.
Prepare the Roof Support Bracket
Assemble your roof support bracket by attaching the L-brackets to the sides of the clamp using the provided bolts.
Determine the proper position of your roof support bracket relative to the mark you just made and clamp it in place on your pipe. The roof support bracket can be installed upside-down or right-side up, on top of the roof under the pipe boot, on the ceiling above the ceiling trim plate, or anywhere in between. The two most popular options are pictured. Install the support bracket wherever makes the most sense for your installation.
The insulated pipe must drop low enough below the ceiling to avoid a clearance violation from the single-wall pipe below it. Ensure there is at least 18" clearance to combustibles from the single-wall portion of the single-to-double adapter to surrounding combustibles. If not, use heat shields to reduce the required clearance to no less than 6", or add more insulated pipe to extend the single-wall portion further away from the ceiling.
Secure the Chimney to the Structure
Fasten the base of your roof support bracket L-brackets to your structure to support the weight of your chimney. Ensure your stovepipe is plumb, and tighten the bolts holding the L-brackets in place to hold your pipe in place.
Build Your Connector Pipe
Connect the remaining single-wall pipe from your stove to the single-to-double adapter, using a single-wall clamp or three stovepipe screws at each joint to fasten the sections together. No cement or caulk is required or recommended at pipe-to-pipe joints.
The center joint of the telescoping pipe is meant to be free-floating and does not need to be clamped or screwed.
Single-wall pipe can be cut to achieve the length you need. Cut the pipe with a chop saw or angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade. You can use a single-wall clamp as a guide and a sharpie or a wax pencil to mark your cuts. Cut the female end off and preserve the factory male end on the piece you're going to use.
You can cut the female end off a longer single-wall pipe and insert the top of the telescoping pipe inside of it to make a longer telescoping section.
Step 4: Create a watertight roof seal
Your pipe boot or flashing is critical to keeping water from penetrating your roof. A properly installed pipe boot or flashing should provide decades of reliable service.
A high-temperature silicone pipe boot is the ideal choice for flashing a non-porous roofing material like metal or rubber. Pipe boots are generally not compatible with porous roofing materials like asphalt or cedar shingles, or slate or tile roofs, and a metal flashing should be used with those materials instead. Hybrid pipe boots with sheet metal bases can be installed under shingles or tiles similar to a metal flashing, but do not need sealant between the boot and the pipe, and don't require a storm collar.
Installing a Pipe Boot
Ensure that the underside of your pipe boot flange and the top of your roof where the flange will sit are clean and dry. Consult the directions on your roofing sealant and the weather report to ensure that conditions will allow it to properly cure (i.e. not too cold, and not raining until the cure is complete).
Determine whether your pipe boot needs to be trimmed to fit your pipe. Most pipe boots include stamped ridges with labels for various pipe diameters. If necessary, use scissors to trim your pipe boot to the proper size. If you need to cut your boot and there are no guidelines, it's best to cut the hole about 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe passing through it to create a snug, watertight seal with no additional sealants need.
Install your pipe boot onto your insulated pipe with the metal side of the flange pointing up. Push your flange down your pipe until the flange is fully in contact with your roof. If your pipe boot has a square base, it's often best to orient the corner to the high side of your roof (i.e. like a diamond, not a square), which will give you better coverage and help to shed water away from the flange.
Make any final adjustments to the position of your boot around the pipe. Ensure that the flange can fully contact the roof without stretching the boot, or pulling the boot away from the pipe. If your boot is stretched, try pushing the top of the boot further down the pipe to relieve the tension.
Apply sealant to the underside of your pipe boot flange, then fasten the flange into place with fasteners through the flange and into the roof. Fastener spacing should be approximately 1" - 1.5" apart, and fastener type is dictated by the roofing material. Rivets work well for sheet metal. Pan head stainless screws work well for both metal and rubber roofs with wood sheathing behind them. Avoid zinc galvanized screws, which will deteriorate over time. If using screws on a metal roof, drill a pilot hole before installing each screw.
The boot flange needs to tightly conform to the surface of the roof. Fasten from the center outward, and avoid stretching or pinching the boot while fastening. If installing on a corrugated roof, ensure you have a fastener at the bottom of each corrugation to prevent the boot from pulling away.
If installing on a standing seam metal roof, planning ahead for ideal placement can help ensure a successful installation.
- Avoid creating a dam by blocking the entire flat area between two seams, causing water to collect against the top of the boot flange. If the flat is not sufficiently large to accommodate the pipe boot, a pipe curb can be added to provide a sufficient mounting surface without obstructing the flow of water. Contact the manufacturer of your roofing material for pipe curb recommendations.
- Avoid installing the boot up and over a seam. An installation up and over a seam will typically not be maintenance-free for the life of the roof, so periodic inspection and re-sealing will be required. If installing over a seam cannot be avoided, pay special attention to the area at the base of each seam to ensure that the boot flange is properly bent and secured to tightly conform to the seam. Use a flat tool like a putty knife to press the flange into the inside corner, and install a fastener as close as possible to the edge of the seam. Inspect the seal annually and re-seal as needed.
Seal around the perimeter of the pipe boot flange, and over top of each of the fasteners. Remove any excess sealant.
No sealant is required or recommended where the pipe meets the boot.
A storm collar is optional if you are using a pipe boot. If using a storm collar, install the collar immediately above the pipe boot, and seal between the pipe and the storm collar with high-temp RTV silicone.
Step 5: Assemble your chimney
Add any additional sections of insulated pipe to reach the height needed, securing each joint with a double-wall clamp.
Add Bracing if Needed
An extended chimney support bracket is generally required if your chimney extends more than 5 feet above your roof line, or if you feel your chimney needs additional bracing due to extreme winds.
If you are using an extended chimney support bracket, install the clamp on the pipe at least 3' above the roof line and no more than 5 feet from the top. Adjust the arms of the bracket to reach points on the high side of the roof on either side of the chimney. A 60 degree arm angle relative to the vertical chimney is ideal. Secure the feet of the arms to the roof using appropriate roofing fasteners and roofing sealant. We recommend applying sealant to the threads of each fastener prior to installing it, then burying the entire foot in roofing sealant.
Cap Your Chimney
Install the roof vent on the top of the chimney and secure with a double-wall clamp.
Trim Your Ceiling
Install the ceiling trim plate on the ceiling around the insulated pipe. For pitched ceilings, install half of the plate on the low side of the ceiling first, then install the other half on the high side, overlapping the previous plate.
Step 6: Inspect your installation
Verify Chimney is Supported
The roof support bracket should fully support the weight of the chimney. If the chimney stands 5' or taller above your roof line, it should be reinforced with an extended support bracket. The entire flue system should be sturdy and stable.
Verify Joints are Secure
Ensure every pipe-to-pipe joint has either a clamp or three stovepipe screws (except for the center joint of the telescoping pipe which is free-floating). Joints are not required to be airtight, only structurally secure.
Check for clearance violations around your stove and your entire flue system.
The Dwarf stove requires 18" clearance from the back or 16" to the sides. Third party stoves may require different clearances, so check your user manual or contact the manufacturer if needed.
Single-wall pipe requires 18" clearance to combustibles. These clearances can be reduced by up to 2/3 with a proper air cooled heat shield between the heat source and any combustible materials. Insulated pipe requires 2" clearance to combustibles in all directions.
Larger clearances are always acceptable.
If you aren't sure about any part of your flue installation, please get in touch! We are here to help however we can. You can contact us by email at firstname.lastname@example.org, call us at 208-352-3417, or use the contact form below.